2008 135i Front Brake Pad Replacement

[JBT2]

I'm ordering replacement pads and a brake sensor. Considered doing it myself and looked at some DIYs but, ended up a bit confused about caliper removal.

Some advocate removing the two 10mm allen head bolts (caliper to mounting plate) to remove the caliper. Some of those guys had really big problems shifting them.

Others say this is BS and the caliper and backing plate should be removed as a unit from the suspension and that those mounting bolts should be replaced.

Anyone here done it and, if so, which method did you use and what problems arose?

[vtl]

For the fronts i remove the entire assembly. Remove the two big bolts on the carrier and leave the allen heads attached.

I wouldn't touch the allen head bolts, sure you might be fine (I have removed the allen caliper bolts on a BMW F25 before with no issues) but you have much less chance of stripping a normal bolt. The mounting bolts do not need to be replaced.

You also don't need a brake pad spreader for the 135i brakes, the pistons are so small you can push them back with your fingers.

[JBT2]

Thanks for that vtl. Did you put a bit of thread locker on the bolts at reassembly? Torque about 110 Nm?

[froop]

The mounting bracket for the caliper needs to be removed from the hub. Don't remove the caliper from the bracket as it's not supposed to ever be removed.

Once you have loosened the bracket then you can just push it back and forth until the pads have loosened enough for you to pull it off the rotor. You may or may not have to loosen the torx bit bolts to take the pads out.

Then just retract the pistons all the way with your fingers, reinstall the new pads and backing plates and apply proper brake grease to stop it from squealing. Then just pop the caliper back on and you're golden.

Blue threadlocker is probably a good idea but I've never had an issue with mine without threadlocker and I don't even use a torque wrench. I just do it by feel based now but it's probably a good idea to use a torque wrench if you haven't done it before.

[vtl]

Originally Posted by JayBeeJay

Thanks for that vtl. Did you put a bit of thread locker on the bolts at reassembly? Torque about 110 Nm?

I did not use threadlocker, existing bolt seemed to have enough of the original threadlocker on it from preventing the screw from freely rotating.

Yes 110Nm, use a torque wrench for sure, can't accurately do up a bolt to 110Nm when hunched over in the wheel arch at a weird angle.

[JBT2]

Thanks again for the good info vtl. I agree with your advice that the caliper should not be removed from the bracket.

Parts are on order from Everything BM. It isn't an "urgent" job as such, so I'll have a good look around in there before I start the job.

The car's computer reckons there's still 10,000km in the pads but Not bad for originals at 143k though.

I'll put up some pics when I do this.

BTW, I like what you have done with your car.

[Fuji]

Originally Posted by JayBeeJay

The car's computer reckons there's still 10,000km in the pads but Not bad for originals at 143k though.

Highly doubt they are still the original pads!

[JBT2]

Originally Posted by Fuji

Highly doubt they are still the original pads!

It's a one (now two) owner car with mostly highway kms. I have the full BMW dealership service record and the brake pads have never been replaced - checked only during service.

[Caduceus]

They most certainly are the original pads. I was the first owner. Although the photo doesn't show the pad itself, this is the digital vernier reading of the remaining friction material just before I had it roadworthied.

[JBT2]