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| 06-15-2025, 07:38 PM | #1 |
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Automotive Enthusiast
2
Rep 5
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Drives: 2012 BMW 128i - 6MT Slicktop
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
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Hello!
Long time lurker, first time poster. So, I just got my third 1 series (after an auto, and a high mile manual) and it is pretty much base spec everything (manual standard seats, no I-drive, halogens, no sunroof, etc). Ideal spec for enthusiasts I guess ![]() Anyway, I had the opportunity to purchase manual sport seats for ~$300/pair in great condition! I wanted to write up this post as I have being trying to find videos and threads on how to go about doing this, but the answer wasn't straight forward (having to piece together from a few different threads). At least the process of actually swapping the seats was fairly simple! To start, you basically want to find donor seats that have similar functions to the seat installed in your car (ie. if you have manual seats, get manual sport seats; If you have auto standard seats - if that's a thing?? - get auto sport seats; etc.). It just makes swapping things over easier and you are less likely to throw any codes As for the install process once you get your donor seats - they go as follows: Step 1 - Disconnect battery - Negative (-)/black terminal People recommend also leaving your lights on to drain residual electrical energy in the system if you don't plan on leaving it overnight or something. This is what I did and I didn't have any issues, but I don't know if it actually did anything. Better safe than sorry ![]() For this you need a simple 10mm socket (See attached pic) ALSO - Make sure NOT to close your trunk, especially on later model years as the truck is opened electronically and there is no key hole to open manually (so you are basically SOL unless you grab a jumper or battery or something to put on the battery posts in the engine bay) Step 2 - Use a T50 torx bit to take the 4 bolts holding the seat in You should have just enough room with the seat all the way forward and all the way back to use a 1/2" ratcheting driver, although a 3/8" would probably be easier clearance wise (my T50 torx bit was 1/2" drive). (See attached pic) Step 3 - Unplug connections under seat The yellow connector is undone by inserting something flat like a screwdriver into between the black part on the (right side if passenger; left side if driver; they are mirrored) and the yellow connector itself. As the black piece moves out, the connector moves out of the socket. It's best to help it along as you pry on the black retaining piece/clip (see image below). This connector can also be unclipped from the seat if needed for better access with the two prongs below it. Same goes for the second small black connector on top of the main yellow one. That connector is undone by pinching the outside sideways and pulling the middle out (might take a sec to get it out first try). (See attached pic) Step 4 - Now your seat can come out! But its not over yet! You still need to swap your old seat's belt buckles to the seat you will be installing on the car. This will help insure your car does not throw any codes as the car will essentially think you have the same seat in your car! Step 5 - Swapping the belt buckles So far, this swap will have been pretty easy. Here is where it can get just a tad more difficult. You will need the same T50 torx bit to take the buckle off. Additionally you will have to cut two zipties that hold the belt buckles wires that go to the yellow connector in place. After the bolt and the zipties are cut (making sure not to nick the wires), The end of the belt buckle wire can be snapped/slidden out of the yellow connector (which makes this possible). There is a small tab on top and bottom. See picture for clarification (passenger connector) (See attached pic) Step 6 - Now that the buckle is off, repeat same process with donor seat Step 7 - Now install your old buckle on the new seat (make sure not to mix them up) Step 8 - Repeat Steps 1-5 in reverse to install the seat! Much easier going in then coming out. And also took half as much time doing the passenger seat after the driver seat as I knew what to do instead of fiddling around with all the connectors and such. Make sure to have the lights in the on position still, put the negative terminal back on and tighten (don't over torque it, just hand tight with a 1/4" ratchet is plenty) AND VOILA - New sport seats installed! Also, no battery reprogamming or anything required as its the state of the battery hadn't changed. Only thing you'll need to reset is the clock/date, the rest of the information should stay (radio presets, vehicle service interval, etc). If you make use of the trip odo, just make sure to make note of the miles/mpg etc as that will reset. *Insert pic of sport seat installed here* LOL Hopefully this DIY thread might be useful to someone! ![]() Also thinking of posting a video tutorial to youtube so stay tuned for that -> Last edited by RoadWarriorr; 06-28-2025 at 08:20 PM.. Reason: Added YT link |
| 04-08-2026, 05:39 PM | #2 |
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Registered
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Rep 1
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I've just done this swap, but am now getting an airbag warning.
Tried swapping the seat belt connectors but no change. Swapped convertible to coupe, all connectors identical. Can't clear the seatbelt/air bag warning light. What did I do wrong? |
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| Today, 10:44 AM | #3 |
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Riffraff
688
Rep 480
Posts
Drives: 128i 6M, 1UZ S13, '62 C10
Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Detroit Metro Outskirts
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Did this swap a few years back.
FLBMW34232 2 things can cause an airbag light in my experience. 1.) Disconnect the battery for a bit before pulling the seat connectors (I know this was covered above). 20 minutes was long enough for me. 2.) Seatbelt pretensioner switch? Can't remember what they're called exactly, but there's these switches on the side of the seat rails that are held in with a tiny torx bolt IIRC. I think they are used to determine how the seatbelt explosives work in an accident, and they're basically inputs for the computer to know how far fore/aft the occupant is sitting in the vehicle. IIRC I had to swap my switches over from my previous seat, minding their positioning. Not to threadjack, but if you're like me - I went from comfort/power/heated/no lumbar seats to sport/power/heated/lumbar seats. I was able to snag junkyard e90 seat connectors and de-pin/re-pin in my car. Basically I just spliced into the big wires for the seat heating to power/ground the lumbar/bolster functions. See posts below for more details on that. https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=2113374 https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=2159913 (Note the wiring pinout diagrams in here, shoutout Spielmp3206 |
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| e8x, retrofit, seat upgrade, sport seat |
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