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11-14-2014, 09:48 AM | #1 |
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TUN3D 135i build (1M Conversion) - Rear & Quarters
Thanks to ilikebmxbikes, Sk8fe, Venom, EINSER M, Mybad135, Tony135, uberschnell, and a few others for answering my questions in regards to this project. Not reinventing the wheel here, just another boring 1M conversion -- haha! Hopefully some of the pics will help the next guy in line -- so lets get to it.
Note: I broke this build into different sections/threads. The page was getting so big that even I had trouble following or finding things at times. This conversion has many phases. I've done my best to group them in a manner which is easy to understand and navigate. Navigation: Conversion & Parts List • Home Page & Main Build Thread • Front • Rear & Quarters < • Battery & Exhaust • Ducts & PPK2 ---------------------------------------- In this post you'll find: • Complete Quarter Panel Removal/Installation • Rear Inside Fender Extension ---------------------------------------- ////////////////////////////////////////////// Rear & Quarters Parts List ========================= I know its taken a while, but now that everything is installed -- I feel comfortable putting out/confirming this list. Required 51128053878 - Rear Bumper w/i Sensors (*1) 51128052495 - Rear Bumper w/o Sensors (*1) 51128051611 - Rear Bumper Guide L 51128051612 - Rear Bumper Guide R 51118053877 - Set of Covers (*2) 51778053879 - Side Skirt L 51778053880 - Side Skirt R 41008052629 - L Quarter Panel 41008052630 - R Quarter Panel Optional Parts: 51128051910 - Diffuser (*3) 51718051593 - Cover, Wheel Housing, Rear L (*4) 51718051594 - Cover, Wheel housing, Rear R (*4) Notes & Updates: (*1) Verify that you're getting the correct part. (*2) This set includes front and rear covers. Front covers should come installed with the front bumper, so chances are you'll have spares. NO other way to go around it -- you need this for the rear covers. (*3) The diffuser costs about $500+. At that rate, it doesn't make much sense to go with OEM when a nicer CF aftermarket diffuser starts around the same price. If you want the OEM look, then go with Seibon. If you want to step it up, then go with ModeCarbon. If you want to really get crazy, then go with RevoZport. (*4) After tons of research, these are the correct parts. For reference, they are E92-M3 fender liners. Unfortunately...these don't "pop" right in. Everyone goes about the conversion differently, which ultimately dictates fitment. In other words, you'll have to modify them (cut/trim), to make it work for you. There is another possible solution available (if you absolutely need them to fit 150% without modification). PM me if you're interested. ---------------------------------------- ////////////////////////////////////////////// 08/25/14 ========================= One down. BTW, if you live in an apartment -- you might want to get it delivered straight to the body shop... Right side... Check out the arches... More of the arches... ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/04/14 ========================= Decided to cut right below the body line. Less factory spot welding points to remove... ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/05/14 ========================= ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/08/14 ========================= ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/10/14 ========================= ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/11/14 ========================= ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/12/14 ========================= ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/13/14 ========================= ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/15/14 ========================= ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/17/14 ========================= Before the fender rolling... After the fender rolling... ////////////////////////////////////////////// 09/18/14 - PAINT ========================= Last edited by TUN3D; 04-24-2015 at 08:28 AM.. |
11-14-2014, 11:53 AM | #3 |
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EPIC !!!
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff "The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is |
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11-14-2014, 02:05 PM | #5 |
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EldRick > LMFAO! Reminds me of an old, dumb movie > Revenge of the Nerds 2...when they were sitting around the beach getting stoned out of their minds..."What if C A T really spelled dog?"
Yu'z Crazy bro...lol |
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11-17-2014, 07:59 AM | #7 |
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dm0ng > Couple of reasons. To start it's more cost effective -- at the end -- same exact result. Removing the windows and all the factory spot welding/sealing in those areas means way more (unnecessary) time, thus more money.
If the car was involved in an accident where you had to fix the "C" pillar, then -- ok. |
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04-24-2015, 08:33 AM | #8 |
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Update >
Hey guys, noticed that I didn't add the part #'s for the rear wheel housing/fender liners. Thanks to > brett6ll. Here are the part #'s: 51718051593 - Cover, Wheel Housing, Rear L (*4) 51718051594 - Cover, Wheel housing, Rear R (*4) Note: Read the notes above for a better understanding on fitment issues. I left them in the "optional" section as they need modification to fit. |
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05-04-2015, 09:41 AM | #11 |
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05-04-2015, 02:29 PM | #13 |
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Thank you TUN3D ! You are the reason why i will be doing 1m conversion next year , respect on this tutorial ! This need to be sticky! There's no way i would try 1m conversion without all your precise details,pictures..! Sorry on my bad english
Last edited by MDMA 135i; 05-04-2015 at 02:35 PM.. |
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05-06-2015, 12:07 PM | #15 |
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MDMA 135i > No worries. Glad you're gonna give this a try. Let me know how it goes, would love to see some pictures.
lovethe1 > You might want to get on this one as well. New engine coming soon... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...862256&page=16 |
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11-16-2015, 03:05 PM | #16 |
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I've been studying your threads trying to decide whether to attempt this and saw that you had the side skirts listed in the front section and the rear section...
51778053879 - Side Skirt L 51778053880 - Side Skirt R Was this just a typo or do you need 2 left and 2 right to complete the whole conversion? thanks.... great job btw |
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11-20-2015, 09:42 AM | #17 |
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hunterl41 > I added them to both sides for those who compartmentalize the conversion. Some people do the front first/only, and others do the rear. At any point, you can get the side skirts to line up the panels -- or -- to fuse them to your stock sideskirts (like Sk8fe initially did). More out of convenience, but I see how it can be redundant and confusing. I removed it from the front. Thanks for looking out.
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10-17-2018, 04:19 PM | #18 |
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Wheel spacing
Looks amazing, by chance do you remember what size spacers you used to fill the gap? My 135i/1m is almost near completion and wheel spacers are something I need to look into in the next couple weeks and any info from you would help tremendously.
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10-19-2018, 11:14 AM | #19 |
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NewlyWedMan > No spacers. Those are new wheels with 1M offsets. I never looked into the spacers. I really wanted it to look right && needed/wanted the beefier tires in the rear.
The only advice I can give you -- if you're going down the path of 1M wheels...is to really crunch down the calculations and do a little research on it. IIRC, the 1M/M3 rear suspension is shorter in width than the 135's. The rear wheels on my car...even though they are 1M offsets, rub a bit with 295's. I had to come down two tire sizes to eliminate rubbing which I didn't like. There are narrow hubs that you can install that will give you an extra 10mm on each side which should bring everything within spec. Last edited by TUN3D; 01-08-2019 at 03:21 PM.. |
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12-01-2018, 10:08 PM | #21 |
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thank you guys
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11-28-2023, 09:21 AM | #22 |
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In your first post, part number 51128051910 Rear diffuser says it's $500+ but I am finding it for $170 ish. Is the OEM rear diffuser just plastic? Or is it a carbon fiber piece?
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